Source www.heatheronhertravels.com
While Malta is packed full of historic attractions, its sister island Gozo makes a quiet retreat that you can easily visit in a day. Here you’ll find a calmer atmosphere, with a fortified citadel, boat trips, turquoise bays for swimming and green countryside for walking. Read about all the things to do in Gozo and the 1 day itinerary we recommend, using public transport or hire car.
1. VICTORIA AND THE CITADEL
Gozo’s capital of Victoria is located in the centre of the island, its elevated position allowing early warning of raids from the sea. The Citadel is a fortified 16th century city, contained within high walls and bastions, while the more modern part of Victoria, known as Rabat, lies outside the walls.
In 1551 Ottoman forces attacked Gozo and took almost all the population as slaves, after which the city was heavily fortified to make a sanctuary in times of attack. Until 1637 it was law for the population of Gozo to sleep within the citadel walls, but once the island became more peaceful, most residents moved outside the walls to Rabat.
It’s free to walk around the Citadel, although there is a charge to visit certain areas such as the visitor centre, cathedral and various museums within the walls. If you only have one day with lots more places to visit in Gozo, I’d suggest skipping the museums and just wander around the atmospheric old streets.
You will first arrive in the impressive central square facing the facade of the baroque cathedral dedicated to Santa Marija. Even if you don’t have a ticket to visit the cathedral and museum, you can still step inside the front to make a photo of the interior.
VIEWS FROM THE WALLS OF THE CITADEL
Continuing along the lanes behind the cathedral will bring you up onto the walls of the bastion, with views over the countryside.
As you circle around the outer walls, observe the remains of buildings that once housed numerous families, ending at a pleasant cafe to stop for a drink or a meal. Allow around an hour to walk around the citadel and two hours if you plan to visit the cathedral and museums.
After visiting the citadel of Victoria, walk down the hill and cross the main road, wandering through the lanes to St George’s Square. This pretty square has a number of cafes where you might like to sit with a coffee. It’s watched over by the St George’s Basilica, which is free to visit.
This is a good place to shop for local souvenirs and we especially liked the Preti Artigjaneli shop in the square, selling gifts inspired by Maltese doors and tiles.
Most bus routes around Gozo start from Victoria, so this is an excellent place to base yourself if you plan to stay on Gozo for a few days and don’t want to hire a car.
2. XLENDI BAY
From Victoria, head south towards the pretty bay of Xlendi, with clear turquoise water that’s great for swimming. Like much of Malta, the landscape of Gozo is starting to suffer from a building boom that creates high rise development around the bays like Xlendi and even more built up Marsalforn.
We found 6 story modern apartment blocks creeping up the hillside quite unattractive, but nevertheless the water here is clear and there are some excellent restaurants around the sea front.
If you are looking for a proper seafood lunch, this could be the place to stop for a while. Otherwise you can walk along both sides of the bay, and of course swim in summer.
WALKS FROM XLENDI
The steps and cliff path on the north side of Xlendi bay leads you to a small sea cave known as Carolines Cave, which was gifted to the local Augustinian nuns as a secluded swimming spot.
On the south side of the bay, a path follows the rocky shore and leads you to the Xlendi tower on the headland. The walking trail continues along the cliffs, around another bay for views of the Snaap Cliffs and beyond as far as Sannat.
3. DWEJRA INLAND SEA & BOAT TRIP
After calling in at Xlendi, I’d recommend heading next to Dwejra, on Gozo’s west coast. A highlight of our day in Gozo was the short boat trip from Dwejra inland sea around the cliffs and sea caves. This was the site of the famous Azure Window sea arch that was one of the top things to see in Gozo, but collapsed after a storm in 2017.
The grandly named “inland sea” is actually a small lagoon of sea water, filled through a narrow tunnel through the cliffs that takes you into the open sea. Small boats gather here, ready to take visitors out through the tunnel on a 20 minute boat trip, costing a modest €4.
There’s no booking required, just turn up and pay in cash, then the boats will leave once there are enough people – normally 6-8 people per boat. The trip takes you through the tunnel and into the open sea, past the impressive cliffs and into a couple of sea caves where the boatmen will point out the clarity and intense blue of the water.
It is permitted to swim through the sea tunnel and this is a popular dive site. However, I probably wouldn’t do this unless you are part of an organised diving trip, are an experienced open water swimmer and have a coloured marker float with you, since there’s a danger that boats may not see you.
AZURE WINDOW AND BLUE HOLE
As you pass the cliffs you will spot the site of the Azure Window, a sea arch that was a popular tourist attraction until its collapse. A little further is The Blue Hole, a famous dive site in a limestone sinkhole that can be accessed by walking over the rocks.
After our short boat trip we walked over the rocky shore to take a look at the Blue Hole and the site of the Azure Window from the other direction. Among the rock pools, you can see small fossils of sea creatures embedded in the rock.
Set up on the shore is the Dwejra Tower, a square 17th century watch tower, which is open to the public. In Dwejra Bay is a bulbous rock formation, known as the Fungus Rock, which was the site of a medicinal plant that was much valued by the Knights of St John for its healing properties.
Dwejra Bay and inland sea can be reached on the 311 public bus from Victoria, is a stop for the hop on hop off bus and is included in most tours of Gozo. There is a car park there if you are driving and a small cafe for a coffee or lunch.
4. TA’PINU SHRINE
The road to Dwejra Bay will take you through the village of Gharb, where there are a couple more stops you might like to make. Ta’Pinu Shrine stands alone surrounded by countryside and the scene was especially pretty when we visited in spring, with the wild flowers blooming by the roadside. This basilica is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin of Ta’Pinu, and is built on the site of a smaller 16th century chapel.
There are many stories and miracles attributed to the church, making it a holy place of pilgrimage for Catholics. In 1575 when the chapel was due to be demolished, the first workman to strike a blow broke his arm, which was taken as a sign that work should cease.
Later in the 1880s a local woman named Karmni Grima heard a voice calling from the church for her to say three Hail Marys, and a local farmer and healer Francis Merċieċa helped many local people in the name of Our Lady of Ta’Pinu. As a result of their devotions, word spread and many pilgrims began to visit the small chapel.
BUILDING OF THE TA’PINU BASILICA
In the 1920s, the current much larger church was built on the site of the church which was subsequently visited by three different popes who offered prayers in the basilica. The exterior and approach to Ta’Pinu shrine are impressive, with coloured mosaic on each side of the piazza showing scenes from the life of Christ. On the opposite side of the road you can climb Ghammar Hill to pass the 14 stations of the cross and get a nice view back towards the Basilica.
Inside the Basilica, the interiors are relatively simple compared to the full on gold and vibrant colour of other churches in Malta. There is an impressive central altarpiece and the original chapel remains but is hidden behind the sanctuary.
In the nearby village of Gharb is the Karmi Grima museum, named after the local woman who heard the call of Our Lady at the Ta’Pinu chapel. The basilica is one of the Gozo attractions that demonstrates the strong Catholic faith in the islands of Malta and is an interesting stop for a short visit.
5. TA’ DBIEĠI CRAFTS VILLAGE
If you are interested in locally made crafts and souvenirs, the Ta’ Dbieġi Crafts Village in Gharb provides a one stop shop of local artisans and craft stores. The low buildings were previously used as a military camp, now repurposed as a small complex of different shops. Each one houses different crafts like hand made pottery, metalwork, leather, lace and glass blowing.
In high season many of the craft workers can be seen giving demonstrating their crafts, although it was quiet when we looked around. There’s a small cafe serving traditional dishes at lunchtime as well as an artisan bakery that has a great selection of local cakes and pastries.
The Crafts Village could be easily combined with a visit to nearby Ta’Pinu Shrine and is on the road to Dwejra Bay, so worth a stop if heading in that direction.
6. WIED IL-GHASRI
After visiting the sites around Gharb, we headed towards Gozo’s northern shore. Wied Il-Ghasri is one of the inlets that cuts into the limestone cliffs on the coast of Gozo. This narrow gorge like valley cut into the limestone ends at the sea, where there’s a small beach for swimming.
Use an online map to find the location, but leave your vehicle parked by the main road and walk a short distance along the stony track to the top of the gorge. We did see vans and jeeps driving down the unmade track but it looked far too rough for us to want to risk our hire car!
Above the beach are stone steps that lead you down, offering lovely views of the inlet, with its clear, green water. When the sea is calm this a relaxing place to swim and snorkel, with the steep sides of the gorge rising on either side.
A little further west along the coast, and accessible by a walking trail along the clifftop, is the Wied il-Meilah rock arch. The arch is a smaller version of the Azure Window at Dwejra that collapsed and there’s a stairway leading to a viewing point. Both spots are connected by the Ta’ Ġurdan walking trail that makes a circular route from the village of Gharb.
You can walk along the top of the cliff on one side of Wied il-Ghasri, which would be a lovely picnic spot. The whole valley is known for its wildflowers, prickly pears and capers that grow along the stony walls of the valley.
7. XWEJNI SALT PANS
There are salt pans in several locations around Malta and Gozo, but the best place to see these close up is Xwejni on Gozo’s north coast. After visiting Wied Il-Meilah, we followed the coast road where it’s easy to spot the salt pans creating a photogenic chequer board effect, close to sea level. Park by the roadside and wander down to take a closer look at the salt pans, that were hand cut from the limestone bed rock.
Salt is mostly harvested through the summer months, using sea water that is pumped into the shallow pools. After the water has evaporated, the salt crystals are swept up and made into piles, so the sun can dry the salt further.
In the past large quantities of salt were produced for preserving food. These days it’s more of an artisan craft, continued by just a few families. Stop at the small salt shop near Xwjeni Bay, to buy a bag of the salt to take home, for an authentic souvenir of Malta and Gozo.
8. XWEJNI BAY
After driving past the salt pans, if you want a peaceful spot to relax and swim, we’d recommend Xwejni Bay. This sheltered bay is not as built up as some of the other seaside spots on Gozo. It was quiet when we visited in spring, but gets quite busy in high season. There’s a small stony beach, with other rocky places to enter the water.
As the shore is somewhat rocky it’s a favourite place on Gozo for diving and snorkelling. There are a couple of cafes along the seashore and we especially enjoyed our lunch at Crab Shell Kiosk, a cool trailer restaurant with outdoor seating and a great beach view.
9. GGANTIJA TEMPLES
The Ġgantija Temples are one of a number of Neolithic sites in Gozo and Malta. They were built around 3000 years BC when there seemed to have been a thriving culture of temple building. Entrance is through the Visitor Centre where there’s lots of information about the history of the site and some artefacts such as small female figures, thought to be fertility symbols.
The temple site is approached via a walkway that leads around the site and then takes you into the temple enclosure. Unfortunately the appearance of the stone structures is marred by protective metal scaffolding in place that is required to keep certain sections from collapse.
There are two adjoining temple structures, with high walls built of enormous stone boulders that would have originally been even higher. Inside each structure, the stone slabs are formed into altars and hearths, some with holes formed into the rock that played some part in rituals and ceremonies.
Very little is known about the people who built these temples, but they required a considerable amount of skill and communal effort to manage the huge blocks of stone. At the time they were built the temples would have been highly visible across the landscape, standing out in the same way that church spires do today. We recommend allowing at least an hour to see the visitor centre and the Ggantija Temples.
To reach the Ggantija Temples by public bus, take the Route 307 bus from Victoria and the hop on hop off bus also stops here.
10. RAMLA BEACH
Most of the swimming places on Gozo are rocky or pebble, the exception being Ramla Beach. The broad beach is known for its red orange sand and is probably the best beach in Gozo for swimming and relaxation. Parking is along the road that leads to the beach, with a turning and drop off point where the road ends at the beach.
Set back from the beach at the end of the road are a couple of beach cafes. You can reach Ramla Beach on the Route 302 public bus from Victoria, and the hop on hop off bus also stops here. Many organised tours will also bring you here for a swim, since it’s one of the most popular beaches in Gozo.
11. MORE BEACHES ON GOZO
There are a few other beaches worth mentioning, though none are as accessible, or as sandy as Ramla beach. These are places to bring your beach shoes to protect your feet as well as your mask and snorkel.
Mgarr ix-Xini – a deep bay on Gozo’s south coast, with clear water and steep sided cliffs that are favoured by climbers. The small pebble beach is where Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt filmed scenes from “Beside the sea” in 2015.
Hondoq ir-Rummien – located on Gozo’s south coast facing Camino. Surrounded by a rocky shore this is a favourite spot for snorkelers who can swim into the small sea caves. There’s a small sand and pebble beach, with ladders from the rocky shore to spots where you can jump into the water.
Dahlet Qorrot – a small pebble beach with clear water on Gozo’s north coast. There are fishermen’s huts with colourful painted doors cut into the rock face by the beach.
12. TAL-MIXTA CAVE
In the cliffs above Ramla Bay is a cave that makes a stunning viewpoint over the golden crescent of sand and surrounding countryside. Tal-Mixta cave is a favourite instagram spot, since you can get some fun photos sitting on the rock in the cave with the view behind you. Apart from being a lovely viewpoint there isn’t much else to do at the cave except take photos.
The best way to reach Tal’Mixta cave is by driving, locating the cave on a mapping tool. You can’t drive all the way up to the cave so at the final fork in the road, leave your car by the roadside and walk the remaining 5 minutes. There are lovely views over the beach even from the path.
You’ll probably see other people walking down some steps into the cave, but it’s not that well signposted. Be aware that the cave in on private land, so be respectful of your surroundings when you visit. Other than driving, it’s a hot walk for 40 minutes up hill to reach the cave from Ramla Beach. Most tours of Gozo will bring you to the cave, but the nearest bus drop off point is at Ramla Beach.
13. BOAT TRIP TO COMINO AND THE BLUE LAGOON
Close to Gozo is the smaller and uninhabited island of Comino, the smallest of the three islands in Malta’s archipelago. In summer it’s a popular spot for boat trips, but even if you don’t take one you can see Comino as you pass on the ferry.
The most popular spot in Comino is the Blue Lagoon, a sheltered area of turquoise water off Comino’s shore that’s ideal for swimming. As we were there in spring, it was too cool for a boat trip, but in high season this area becomes super busy with boat trips and the small beach and shore is extremely crowded. There is a kiosk for food in high season but otherwise Comino offers few facilities and you should take everything you need for the day.
Blue Lagoon and Gozo Tour by Quad Bike with dinner – Starting in Valletta, this full day tour includes 2 hours of swimming in the Blue Lagoon, followed by a Quad Bike tour of Gozo as the sun sets.
WHERE TO EAT IN GOZO
There are lots of locations in Gozo for something nice to eat;
Victoria – the prettiest spot is St George’s Square where there a number of cafes overlooked by St George’s Basilica. There’s also a cafe with a view in the Citadel, and many other options for lunch and dinner in the parts of Victoria outside the citadel walls.
Xlendi – this would be our recommendation if you want a seafood lunch in one of the restaurants overlooking the bay.
Marsalforn – this resort on Gozo’s northern coast also has a good range of restaurants along the seafront. The resort is bigger than Xlendi and to be honest we found the large number of high rise buildings so close to the sea quite unattractive. Still if you are sitting in a restaurant looking out to sea the view is very nice.
Xwejni – if you want a light lunch with a view we thought this bay was very pretty and we enjoyed the salads and traditional dishes at The Crab Shell Kiosk.
Dwejra Bay – there’s a small cafe overlooking the inland sea, serving drinks and light dishes.
Nadur – this town close to the ferry port is known for its bakeries, we stopped at Mekren Bakery on the main road to pick up some pastries, but there are a couple more bakeries in town.
A PICNIC IN GOZO
If you’d love to eat local and delicious food in the most scenic spots of Gozo, then get in touch with Ana from Gozo Picnic. Her business started when she began finding the best picnic spots to have lunch with her young daughter, preparing healthy food to share outdoors.
Now Ana offers a service to visitors on Gozo who want a unique experience, and will set up your picnic with tables, cushions, cloths and of course delicious, locally inspired food. Each experience is different and you can discuss whether you’d like your picnic to be on a sandy beach, secluded cove or rural beauty spot.
We tried some of the Gozo Picnic dishes for lunch at the citadel in Victoria, Gozo with lots of local specialties. Ana prepared the Bigilla bean dip with crunchy vegetables, Maltese sausage, miniature sheep cheese tarts and some carob brownies to finish with spiced Maltese coffee. It was all beautifully presented with local flowers and fresh herbs.
BEER AND WINE IN GOZO
There are a couple of wineries in Gozo that offer tastings, but you ideally need to book in advance.
Tal-Massar – close to the village of Gharb, this boutique winery offers pre-booked tours and tastings on Tuesday and Saturday or at other times by arrangement.
Ta’Mena – close to Marsalforn, the winery also grows fruit and vegetables to make into traditional Gozitan condiments, liqueurs and preserves. A 2 hour wine tour and tasting can be pre-booked by contacting the winery.
Lord Chambray is a craft brewery based on Gozo that offers a 45 minute tour and beer tasting at their tap room close to Xewkija. The tap room is also open to serve draught beers or bottles to take away.