Agaete

Source www.swann74.livejournal.com

We had already been to Agaeta during our first winter stay in Gran Canaria in the winter of 2016-17. But then we didn't get around to writing about it. On this visit it turned out that we hadn't really been to Agaete the last time. We were only in its port part of Puerto de las Nieves. This is a othe village, distanced from Agaete about one and a half kilometers. The historic town is located at a small distance from the ocean shore.

Puerto de las Nieves has a passenger port with ferries to Tenerife. You can also sail to the neighboring island from Las Palmas, but the fastest way to get there is from Agaete.

The fast Fred Olsen ferries will take you from here to Tenerife in less than an hour and a half. From here as always from the west coast of Gran Canaria you can see the volcano El Teide on the neighboring island. In the photo below the Fred Olsen ferry runs to Tenerife.

We came here this year mainly to swim in the local natural pools (piscinas naturales). There are almost no beaches on the northern coast of Gran Canaria. Locals use the natural pools formed by solidified lava, of which almost the entire northern coast is composed, slightly leveling and equipping the entrances to the water. The natural pools of Agaete are the most picturesque in my opinion.

And my girls suddenly really liked swimming here. In the South, if there was even a little wave, the youngest refused to go in the water. She was scared. Here, although she has not yet learned to swim, she bravely swam in a circle and kick her out of the water was impossible. Here it was a little scary for me, because to take my eyes off of her during her swims in a circle at depth was impossible for a second. I followed Maya around the edge of the pool, ready to jump in and pull her out.

But the ocean water here is a little colder than on the beach in Playa del Cura or Amadores. In this case, we had some children's wetsuits. In general, the girls were not able to get away from these natural pools. And we spent almost two full days here. We were going to leave only at sunset.

On one of those two days, the girls let me go for a run, and I ran to Agaete with phone in my hands. So this time I also got an impression of the township itself. About 4,000 people live here, it's the center of the municipality, in local terms just a city.

Agaete is one of the Gran Canaria towns that does not have much of a tourist spirit. Empty streets, idle swarthy old men sitting on the benches of the central square in the shade of trees. No stores or bars open. Bright sun, heat and idleness.

It seems as if nothing has changed here since before the beginning of tourism, and it is still a godforsaken village on a godforsaken island far away from civilization. It seemed a little too quiet for my taste. Maybe it's because I got here in the afternoon, when all Canarians are resting at home.

The town is absolutely beautiful and snow-white, but somewhat lifeless, so I had no desire to spend even one night in it.

The Spaniards have lived in this valley since the first years of the conquest, and Puerto de las Nieves has been used as a port since the island's conquest. Before the Spaniards, the Guanches lived here, and here is one of the most important archaeological sites of those times, the necropolis of Maipes de Agaete. There was a large Guanche cemetery with over 700 graves. The graves are up to 1300 years old. The necropolis is located on the edge of Agaete, at the beginning of the valley at the foot of high cliffs.

Beyond the prehistoric cemetery begins the Agaete Valley.

To be fair, there was one opening bar in the central square. There were tables around it, and a few people who didn't look like locals were sitting there.

In the central square is the church of Nuestra Senora de la Concepcion. It was built in 1874 on the site of an older church, which by the end of the 19th century had become dilapidated.

Still in the central square (and in some other places) of Agaete hangs the banner "NO Macro Muelle!"

For several years, local residents are fighting against the plan to build a new port with a huge mall (macro muelle). It should look like this.

On the left - as it is now, on the right - as it should be.
The project costs 44.6 million euros. The length of the new breakwater is 530 meters deep into the ocean, and then another 400 meters of the breakwater should close the bay. There are also plans to build two large piers for ships. It is conceived that to relieve the port of Las Palmas. But locals have started a big campaign with the slogan "No to the macro mall, let's save Agaete!" They wrote petitions, collected signatures, went to rallies. The largest demonstration was in Las Palmas with 20,000 participants. The claims are ecological. Mayor Agaete supports the demands of the opponents. To be honest, I do not really understand what exactly will spoil the new port. But at least one thing will suffer - the beautiful view of the port in Puerto le las Nieves.

In general, Gran Canaria's ecosystem is really quite fragile. This summer, fires destroyed the forest of about half of the best areas for sports orienteering in Tamadaba National Park. Forest fires are the bane of the Canaries since antiquity. The dry summer months have caused forest fires almost every year. This year, the forest was burning just above the Agaete valley. It didn't come down here simply by coincidence. Lucky.

There is also a small park/botanical garden in Agaete. A green and shady place is much needed for any settlement on this island. But the garden is walled off by a high wall. It was a Monday and the gates were closed - a day off. Just below the garden is a dry riverbed; the river "works" only in the spring.

After running around, I returned to Puerto de las Nieves, a modern village but with an ancient church.

It was built in 1532 during the time of the conquistadors. There's a very pretty promenade below.

In addition to the natural pools there is a pebble beach, but in the port.

In general, the town is snow-white and nice.

And a lot of restaurants. Most of them are quite expensive. We got a restaurant called Dedo de Dios. I didn't really like it, a touristy place with slow service. The only good thing I remember is that the portions were huge.

Dedo de Dios (God's Finger) is a local natural attraction. It was a rock topped with a thin pointy end. It was like a finger. But the tip of the finger was fallen due to a strong wind a few years ago. And it lost its tourist symbol to Agaete.

Frankly speaking, we liked the North of the island. The next time we go to our Island, we will definitely live in the North.