Castelsardo Attractions

Despite this small but significant disagreement, it is known that the original core of this village was the Doria Castle where, as it was common in the middle ages, feudal lords and their entourage lived, surrounded by their workers’ houses, all inside the castle’s fortifications.

The city has been, during the centuries, owned by the Genoese, two Giudicati (Eleonora d’Arborea lived there for some time as well as she was married to Brancaleone Doria), the Aragonese, and, in the end, the Savoy family.

The Doria Castle

The first thing to do in Castelsardo is, indeed, visiting its symbol: the Doria Castle. As I previously said, it has now been converted into a museum where you will be able to see various items weaved with traditional techniques from all around the Mediterranean Basin.

The fortress still keeps its original shape as there has never been any demolition and rebuilding, but only reinforcements to survive the wars. From the hill the castle lays on, you can see the whole Asinara Gulf, the city, and, when the weather is clear, you can even catch a glimpse of Corsica.

Admission to the museum is €3. The museum is open daily but opening times vary throughout the year. From May 2 to June 30 and from September 1 to September 30 the museum is open from 9:30 am to 9:30 pm. During July and August, the museum open from 9:00 am to 12:30 am. Audio-guides are available.

The Churches

Another important thing in most medieval villages is the churches, and Castelsardo is no exception. The two most notable ones are the Concattedrale di Sant’Antonio Abate and Santa Maria delle Grazie church.

The Concattedrale is located right in front of the sea, in a very panoramic spot. Its style is a mixture of Catalan Gothic and Italian Renaissance Classicism. The most sight-worthy items and relics inside are the frescos painted by Andrea Lusso; the altarpiece representing Mary and Baby Jesus; and the pipe organ from the 1700s, which is considered the most beautiful pipe organ in Sardinia.

Inside the church there are the cryps and a small museum - Maestro di Castelsardo.

The bell tower was not specifically built for the church, but added from the defensive walls, and was first used as a lighthouse.

Santa Maria delle Grazie church, which has been the Cathedral for three centuries before giving up its role to Sant’Antonio Church, is maybe even prettier and surely more history-filled, as it was built in the 1300s and has been the head of a unique tradition, the Lunissanti procession (more about it in a bit).

The most important relic in this church is the so-called Cristo Nero (Black Christ), a wooden crucifix that got its name thanks to the black wood (juniper) it is made of.

A Stroll Around Town

Many locals recommend a casual stroll in the city center so that you can feel fully immersed in this beautiful place’s atmosphere: as you walk, you will see the traditional baskets I mentioned before hanging outside the houses, because they are a popular decoration all around Sardinia; some civil buildings that are still used nowadays, such as the Palazzo Eleonora d’Arborea (now the city Major’s headquarters) and the La Loggia Palace (now the City Hall).

You will also admire the city’s old fortifications and the 17 watchtowers built by the Aragonese to keep Castelsardo (back then called Castel Aragonese) safe.

You should also stop by Piazza del Novecentenario: this pretty square was inaugurated in 2012 to celebrate the 900 years from the foundation of the village.

Lastly, enjoy the permanent exhibition “Stregoneria, Eresia e Santa Inquisizione” held at Palazzo Episcopale: it’s very well curated and a must-go for whoever is interested in the Spanish Inquisition and its history.

An Ape Calessino Tour

Calessino tours are a great way to explore Castelsardo if you are short on time. You will find these tuk-tuk like vehicles parked below the historic center.

A short ride normally costs €5 per person and takes you to a couple of viewpoints; a longer tour is in the range of €20 per person and lasts about one hour, taking you to the best panoramic spots and dropping you off at the castle where you can continue exploring.

If you wish to have an English speaking guide, get in touch with Nicolas at +393701057562.

A Hike Along The Coast

The coast right below the historic center of Castelsardo is lined with a nice trail that offers incredible views. You can walk the length of the trail from the wooden bridge, located in the Citadel, or just bits of it.

Though it seems quite long and steep, I can assure you it is completely doable and the perfect way to spend a morning (or an afternoon) during spring or fall.

The Holy Week and Lunissanti

The celebrations for the week before Easter is an essential – and unique – ensemble of rites. They take place every year, starting with the aforementioned Lunissanti (Holy Monday) and finishing with the Holy Friday, when Christ is put down the Cross.

These rites mix Christian elements with Pagan ones and trace back to the times when the villagers celebrated the Spring’s arrival and the new farming season.

The Lunissanti procession has Catalan influences as well. It starts from the Santa Maria Church with a Mass celebrated at dawn; then, the members of the Confraternita (a private religious circle, the only ones allowed to celebrate this rite and touch the relics) start their walk towards the Nostra Signora di Tergu Abbey, while chanting and praying, carrying items that symbolize Christ’s passion (called Misteri).

Once it reaches the Monastero di Tergu (outside the city, but worth a visit!), the big crowd that follows the procession stops and enjoys a community lunch, singing and starting the less religious celebration for the new, warmer season.

After this event, the procession starts again, with the same itinerary but backward, ending in Santa Maria Church around twilight.

Roccia dell’Elefante

The most fascinating place to see outside Castelsardo is probably the Roccia dell’Elefante, an elephant-shaped rock that has become a hot photo spot among tourists.