Weather and wind on the Cyclades

Source: GREEK WATERS PILOT, Rod Heikell

The prevailing wind in the summer is the infamous meltemi blowing from the N-NW. The Meltemi begins to blow fitfully at first in June, blows strongest in July, August and September, and dies during October. In July and August the meltemi blows at Force 5-6 and may reach Force 7-8 on occasions. It may blow for 1-3 days or it may sometimes blow for 2 weeks at a time.

There is no way of knowing for just how long it will blow. It has a thermal component in that it loses some strength at night and increases again in the day. In June and again in late September the wind strength is considerably less at about Force 3-4 and there may be wind from other directions.

The direction of the meltemi varies down through the Cyclades. In the northern Cyclades it blows from the NE, curving to blow from the N in the middle Cyclades and curving again to blow from the NW-WNW in the southern Cyclades. In the SW islands of the Cyclades the wind is marginally less strong than in the northern and eastern islands.

Route planning with the Meltemi is essential if you are not to spend an uncomfortable time beating to windward in a strong breeze with short seas stopping your progress. Also remember that the gusts off the lee sides of the islands cause additional problems going to windward and may at times stop all progress.

How to get back to windward through the Cyclades is a much debated point. I favour going S in a great semicircle around the southern Cyclades where the wind is less strong and you can make to the N through the Saronic islands. From Kos or alimnos head for Astipalaia, Anafi, Thira, los, Folegandros, Kimolos and Milos.

At times the Meltemi can be just as strong around los/Folegandros/Milos as elsewhere, so you may need to keep going to the Peloponnisos! Others maintain that you should go N in the eastern Cyclades or the Dodecanese and then W through the northern Cyclades. One thing is clear - going E through the Cyclades is infinitely preferable to going W when the meltemi is blowing. In the spring and autumn the wind is predominantly from the N although there are also winds from the S. Gales are commonly from the N or the SE.

Note Care must be taken of violent gusts off the high land on the lee side of the islands when the meltemi is blowing. These gusts may be considerably stronger than the wind strength on the open sea - gusts of Force 7-8 may be experienced when the
wind on the open sea is Force 5-6. At times small whirlwinds may accompany the gusts which strike with great force very quickly. Places noted for these squalls are the Doro Channel between Evia and Andros, the south coasts of Andros and Tinos, Yiaros, the Kea Channel, Mikinos, Naxos and the islands S of it, the S coast of Amorgos, Kimolos, Folegandros, and the S side of los.

In the summer months the Cyclades are hot and temperatures average 25°-26°C (79°F) and often reach 33°-35°C (95°F). In the summer there is very little if any rain and many of the islands run short of water towards the end of the season. Snow will only fall on the peaks of Andros and occasionally Tinos in the winter.